The Sat Nav tells us we have reached our destination, but I’m looking around and all I can see is road and fields. It’s some ungodly hour on a beautiful Sunday morning, and we are driving up and down the B3227 in Devon trying to find a Llama farm.
After a phone call and another attempt, we find a man on the side of the road, nailing a sign to a post. It has an arrow pointing to our right with the word Llama on it. The man looks like Phil Collins but we assume he is in fact the owner of the Exmoor Llama Farm we are trying to find.
We park up at an unassuming house on the side of the road, where we are led through the gate and enter on foot via a driveway leading to several acres of glorious land. Here we get our first glimpses of the Llamas we will shortly be introduced to.
Phil, sorry Chris, asks if we would like any tea or coffee and since our bodies are still in Sunday morning shock, we accept with enthusiasm and are left for a brief while to admire these stunning animals and the surroundings.
The Llamas look on with utter disdain and because I am by nature, a cowardly, cowardly custard (or cowdy custard as I used to say as a kid), I begin to wonder if this is a good idea. Gingerly, I walk towards the fence.

Domingo the Llama
The first thing I notice is that they are extremely tall, at least 6ft and it takes me aback. They are funny looking creatures, quite majestic, feminine like, with long eye lashes. They look like a cross between a Camel, a Giraffe and some made up animal. (I have images in my head of a God’s kingdom version of crime watch, with a cherub in police uniform and a sketch pad, trying to do a primitive photo-fit. “No, no” God is saying “he was more like a kind of camel with fluff and no humps”. Cherub is now looking at God like he is loopy loo).
I suddenly remembered that its Alpacas that I like, but this being a birthday gift, which I should have booked onto over a year ago, it’s a bit late to worry about that now. Besides, how many people get to do Llama walking in the middle of the English countryside on their weekends off?
Chris’s Wife, Tracey, wades through the long grass to deliver some much needed refreshments. It’s all very English with proper crockery and a wonderful array of biscuits (10 out of 10 for those). We sit in the morning sun, sipping coffee and listening to an introduction to Llama’s and their behaviour. I had no idea there was so much to learn!
Chris and Tracey keep five Llamas altogether, four males and a female; the Llamas also share the land with some ancient breeds of Sheep. They have been keeping Llamas for two years but have been learning about them for some time before that.
The weirdest thing about Llamas is that they don’t really like each other (or anyone else for that matter). They are herd animals but more through necessity. In fact, they merely tolerate one another for survival.
Llamas constantly use their ears and tails to communicate with each other. Apparently, when their ears are straight up in the air they are relaxed, pinned back is a sign they are stressed or uncomfortable and forward means they are inquisitive about something.
What really made me laugh, is that they kept invading each other’s personal space and at all times look as though they are about to “go” at each other handbag style.

“Move Doris” “No, you move first”
So, after being told we can’t stroke or touch them, they are easily spooked, they can kick, spit and they generally hate us, we look forward to our relaxing walk around the farm.
We step into the Llama’s Den. Their ears are going ten to the dozen. They crowd around us like a gaggle of women fighting to get into a Next sale. It’s quite a comical experience, they step towards you, you do the same, and they step back. (Do you Cha Cha Cha)?
They are not very tactile creatures and don’t like to be stroked (and if you do stroke them it has to be on the side of their neck with the back of your hand only). So here we are, in the middle of a field, with a bunch of stressed out Llamas, whose ears are constantly pinned back (and we paid for this?).
The next problem we have, is that they don’t like to be harnessed – it gets better. You have to catch them and corner them and there’s a knack to not getting them spooked. I decide to sit this one out and leave it up to the boys.
They do get harnessed eventually and because the biggest Llama, the pack leader, the top, well, Llama as it were, is chasing us (apparently to assert his dominance and they get jealous), I let Chris lead mine out of the pen.
I finally take the harness and start to lead him down the trail. Now, when I say start to lead him, what actually happens is that he doesn’t move. I can see Andy and Chris way ahead of me, Andy’s Llama obediently following by the side of him. I was told to gently tug on the leash and that they understand the command “walk on”.
These being very sensitive animals, you are unable to tug with any kind of force. So, I tug gently, use the command; now, what was it again? (Come on Mr Llama? Please? Oh, for God’s sake?), he digs his weird looking two toe hobbit feet in and we have a stand off until deadlock is broken by Chris, who comes to help me out.
We stroll along for a bit, mostly with me in the thick bracken and him on the nice even path, occasionally pulling me over to where ever he wants to graze. All is gentle and calm, until he suddenly spooks himself by walking in the thick bracken. The noise makes him jump, can you believe it? He pulls ahead for a short distance with me in tow.

complete control
I really enjoyed the relaxed – about as chilled out as a Seal with an ice pick in it’s head – walk but I am glad that we arrive back at the pen safely.
The other Llama’s are now gathering near the fence to see what’s going on, vying for a look, all eyelashes and noses in the air, like a WAG’s outing.
I follow Chris and Andy into the pen, where thankfully my Llama is taken off of me by Chris. The boys walk off to the other side and set our Llamas free. Just before this, Chris handed me a box to look after. I look down at it and when I look up, I am completely surrounded by Llamas. They are so close, it feels like I have fainted and woken up with a crowd of people staring down at me.
I realise that the box handed to me is full of carrots and it quickly dawns on me that they too realise this. With Emu like behaviour, they start furiously pecking at the box.
I panic a little. Then I say “shoe” to the Llamas (who the hell says shoe these days?). They are not so spooked now are they! I shout for help, but the boys are busy talking and at that moment, I truly believe that I’m not going to get out of there alive.
I do of course get out alive and in the safety of the pub, I reflect on my war wounds and conclude that I had a truly wonderful time walking with Llamas. It was one of my dreams to own, amongst other animals, a Llama as a pet, but I think I can cross that one off my list now!

Wait for me!
Further information: A two hour session including walking with the Llamas plus refreshments costs £30.00 for two people. I went to Exmoor Llamas in Oakford, Devon (http://www.exmoorllamas.co.uk/). You may not be the only people to attend and if there are two of you within a group you may have to share a Llama. There are other walks and adventures available.
Conclusion: I highly recommend this experience to anyone. Chris was an excellent host, great fun and the session was very informative. I had a great time, despite my worries. After all, I could get scared of a Nat!